Yakiniku done properly

Yakiniku restaurants across Tsuruhashi grill a range of cuts tableside over charcoal or gas, from standard beef short rib to offal cuts that are harder to find elsewhere in the city, and the neighbourhood's long-standing reputation means quality across even ordinary-looking storefronts tends to be high.

Beyond the grill

Tsuruhashi Market's stalls sell kimchi in dozens of styles well beyond the standard cabbage version, alongside Korean fried chicken, tteokbokki (chewy rice cakes in a spicy sauce) and other street food, most of it sold ready to eat on the spot rather than as takeaway ingredients.

How to approach a visit

Coming hungry and browsing the market stalls before committing to a sit-down yakiniku spot is a good way to get a feel for what's on offer — much of the best food here is at small, unassuming counters rather than the largest storefronts.